Today again was a great day of surfing, woke up at 7am, looked at the 3 to 4 foot glassy waves from the balcony and went out straight to the beach break.
For the past 7 years I’ve been surfing almost every single day for 2 to 4 hours (depending if 1 or 2 sessions a day), people laugh at me that I’m always in the water, I think I’ve missed about 60 days total in those 7 years.
I live in a surf town where a lot of the people are expats that moved here from all over the world just to surf and live this lifestyle, but they suddenly start businesses, family, develop unhealthy addictions, and they stop surfing and forget why they came here for and get lost.
This post is a reminder to self to stay appreciative of being able to do what I love. Still addicted to it as the day I started 15 years ago, only a surfer knows the feeling.